Bikepacking in Iceland
Ever cycled through a black sand desert? Ever had your whole bike picked up by a storm? Ever cycled over a tectonic plate after taking a bath in a geothermal lake? The rolling lava fields, perfect volcanoes and moon like landscapes are just a few of the unique selling points of this isolated bikepacking wonderland.
Floating all alone up by the Arctic Circle, halfway between Great Britain and Greenland, is the fascinating island of Iceland. Steeped in 1000 years of Viking history, it resembles that of a Tolkien novel. Because of this fantasia it is no stranger to an adventure cyclist. The off-roading here is like nowhere else in the world. Riders will find themselves tearing through the magical yet desolate landscapes and climbing up the side of volcanoes. There is something for all abilities, and even some stuff we aren’t sure what abilities they are for! Due to the extreme weather in parts of the country the bikepacking routes here can often be rated with high difficulty. You might find yourself crossing glacially cold rivers, holding your bike down against 60mph winds or sheltering from unexpected snowfall. It’s safe to say bikepacking Iceland won’t be boring! Make sure to go between June and September to make the most of the 24 hours of daylight this time of year offers. The depths of winter you may get stuck with only 4 hours of sunlight and the campsites may be closed.
Routes
Iceland is a bikepackers dream. There are well maintained and carved out routes all over the country, with hefty fines should you be found veering off them. This is for your safety and to protect nature. Outside of major cities there are limited bike repair opportunities so be prepared to tackle any mechanicals yourself, some of the potholes could damage a car let alone your bike!
Ring road: Road 1
They have a tarmac ring road which is 1333 km in length with many routes off it for the more adventurous. Many people do this route as it is a lot more forgiving than the off road options. It will take around 2 weeks to complete but allow more time for rest days and exploring. Road 1, as they call it, takes you up via the breathtaking Eastfjords through the insane Vatnajökull National Park to the Geothermal North. This route takes you South from Reykjavik and passes through most of the towns which makes topping up supplies a lot easier than the other routes. There are plenty of hotels and campsites along this route but you must plan ahead. Iceland can be wild and dangerous if not planned. You are straight into the action with the first few days passing enchanting waterfalls, unbelievable glaciers and the famous Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. And that’s only the start of it!
Kjölur route: F 35
This route takes the F35 through the highlands and hits some pretty impressive sights along the way. The desolate Kjölur area lies between the Langjokull glacier in the west and the Hofsjokull glacier in the east, the glacial river Hvita in the south and river Seydisa in the north. This situation makes for some pretty epic views, weather permitting. The route is one of the most easily accessible routes through the highlands, popular with hikers and cyclists alike. But don’t be fooled, Iceland’s version of accessibility is not the same as the rest of the world. There are many different accommodation options from campsites to luxury hotels so make sure you book in. A few of the cabins are located near to the geothermal park at Hveravellir which are a must see. You’ll pass Gullfoss, geysir, steaming lava fields, semi-active volcanos and extraordinary mountain formations. If you’re into geology this might just be your holy grail! The F35 route is 192 miles long with the first 45 done by ‘bike-friendly bus’. The weather can be treacherous and the vehicles sharing the road unforgiving but the scenery on this ride makes it all worth it. It should take about a week to complete and if you go north to south you can be back in Reykjavik for your flight home, easy!
Iceland Divide: North to South
Those who really want a challenge and to see all that Iceland has to offer you can follow the North American and Eurasian tectonic plate line from the North to the South. That already sounds cool! Get ready for 554km and over 5600m of ascent in the Icelandic wilderness. See how fire and ice have carved and moulded this insane moon-like landscape to be one of the last remaining truly wild places in Europe. This route has a high difficulty rating largely due to the weather conditions and the odd glacial river crossing. You will pass waterfalls, glacial lakes, lava fields, volcanoes, mountains and caves. You can imagine the Viking ceremonies taking place and half expect Frodo Baggins to jump out at you from behind a black basalt column. Pack your fat bike or 3” tires because the gravel here will fight back against anything skinny. Starting from Akureyri and ending in Vik on the south coast, it weaves back and forth through the very heart of Iceland.
En route must visit places
Reykjavik, the capital city. Located in the Southwest of the island is the most densely populated area with around 123,000 people. It is a fascinating and beautiful city with some stunning architecture and interesting Viking history. A map of Reykjavik’s city cycle routes can be found here.
Gullfoss, the most popular waterfall, and with good reason. It lies 113km east of Reykjavik and can be accessed from the Ring Road. Saved by a local landowners daughter from being built into energy resources by a foreign company in 1929, it is Iceland’s most impressive waterfall and now a registered nature reserve. It has two tiers and plunges 70m into the Gullfoss canyon.
Hveravellir, situated 100km North of Gullfoss off the Kjolur route. This breathtaking Geothermal Park is a must see. Find geothermal pools, water holes and fumaroles uniquely displaying the volatile relationship between fire and ice. The water boils beneath you and bubbles up to the surface. It’s like nothing you could ever imagine, nature stirring up an ever simmering cauldron. Take a well earned dip in the Bláhver hot spring overlooking the park.
Travel inspiration
Take some time off your bike and elongate your journey by a few days. Give yourself time to be a tourist in this unworldly land. Up to 11% of Iceland is covered in Glaciers, why not take a Glacial walking tour whilst you’re passing Jökulsárlón on the Ring Road route. Why not try ice fishing whilst in the North before you try the Iceland divide route? Or reward your efforts with a trip to Thingvellir from Reykjavik to catch the awe inspiring Aurora Borialis (northern lights) after completing the F35?
It’s safe to say, if you’re after a sunny relaxing bike tour do not go to Iceland. If you’re after an impressive, epic, unique and challenging bikepacking adventure you must get yourself to Iceland. Careful planning is a must in this stark land. You may not see another human for over a week and the landscape is wild and like nothing you will have encountered before.
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